Felicity Brown signature hand-dyed ruffles and carefully constructed creations have put her firmly on the fashion map the past three seasons, but today the designer concentrated on wearability – a focus that will surely increase the label’s commercial success, as well as its profile.
The collection’s story was based upon a Victorian adventurer in Africa, fusing prim Victorian tailoring with traditional African neck adornments. Hand-dyed silk jersey had been cut into slices and wet with water before being pulled into strips – a lengthy, arduous process, showcasing a level of craftsmanship that reassured us that wearability needn’t compromise artfully-made clothes.
Models - with messy, pre-Raphaelite curls piled high onto their heads – walked round in a mix of floor-length dresses, in nude, navy and sunset red, featuring corsets and tribal-inspired detailing. Pastel blue silk trousers and mustard layered pencil skirts added a ladylike feel, while cropped, cotton tops with hook and eye fastenings, while teal and yellow smock dresses provided a contemporary edge.
It all felt very beautiful; the romantic, yet tough, clothes, the grand, chandelier-filled presentation room and the luxurious fabrics, but it was a type of beauty that Brown has really made her own – one that is modern, unique and undone.
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