16/09/2011

Bora Aksu SS-2012





BORA AKSU isn’t what you would call a “celebrity” designer but that didn’t stop a whole lot of paps from papping away on his front row this afternoon. And the cause of the controversy? Nicola Roberts – here to join Aksu into The Unknown, the title of his spring/summer 2012 collection.
But what Aksu is, however, is a narrative magpie – his collections always inspired by a story or a tale and specifically the lives and the details of the people within it. Today that came in the shape of Edwardian ladies dressed in all of their finery as depicted on postcards found in a Geneva antiques market.
These same women then paraded out onto Aksu’s petal-strewn catwalk, walking in floral force in their pretty pink and gauzy petticoats, their festooned bodices and frilled hems, ornate icing panelling just so that it could have been piped direct from a couture cake. Bora was back to his romantic self – having last season deviated into a more futuristic and aggressive aesthetic.
The love story that had inspired him, we were told, revolved around Rose and Charles, though the outcome we would never find out. Back on track, he gave us bows and ribbons, lots of lace and looks that could have stepped out from an idyllic Edwardian doll’s house set. Sheer skirts were overlaid with frill-hemmed variations beneath which the designer’s signature wavy tights caught one’s eye and brought a bewitching feel to the collection. Later came shocks of raspberry and turquoise plaits upon tunic dresses and petals growing out from jackets.
Aside from an enigmatic love story, this collection was about separates and tights – and ultimately an evolution of the Bora Aksu brand. 

by JESSICA BUMPUS

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